The car is a story in to itself. Nick and I have decided that it is akin to having a puppy where everyone crowds around to (pet the dog). In this case ii is to see the car. We must get thumbs up every ten or twenty minutes when we are on the road and when we stop people come over and want to talk about it. Nick is fantastic in this regard, carrying on conversations with people who only speak Spanish (and Nick only speaks English). Sometimes he uses Google translator to answer questions, but most of the time it is a smile and some fist bumps. In any case, the car is a conversation piece.
The car is also dependable. On Thursday we got off the beaten track—more on this later—and we had to fight our way up very muddy dirt roads and the car handled this task without any trouble
The other general topic of conversation is crossing the borders. The paper work is voluminous and it is normally done in sign language (and google translator) since we don’t speak Spanish– and the crossing people don’t speak English—why should they. It takes at least two hours to get the car registered and for us to get through customs. We actually altered the trip to insure that we did not have to cross and re-cross borders. (More on the in the next blog.)
Two observations. First, one realizes how inefficient it is to have borders, especially when the countries are so small. What if we would have to register a car going from one state to another? One also realized that the EU has found that not having border crossing where you have to check everyone is a huge deal and one that greatly reduces the transaction costs.
The second observation is that these stops offer us the opportunity to talk to people. I had a long conversation—mostly in broken English and my few words of Spanish—with a truck driver who was going to take his rig down to Panama in a few weeks. He was fascinated with the car. A similar conversation occurred when we were getting gas. The attendant indicated that he was building a bug from scratch. He lived just around the corner and he told us to follow him to his house to see his progress. (See the photos).
Overall the people are really nice and I think Nick (mostly) and I have been good ambassadors. We may be a little weird, but we are friendly and to the best of my knowledge people seem to enjoy the interactions.

RDU to Guatemala (Rick)
All started fine. Got to the airport in plenty of time, even though the forecast was for snow. However the plane was delayed for two hours due to a crew change and the need to put in more fuel. Got to DFW 20 minutes before my flight to Guatemala City was scheduled to take off. Luckily the gates were close by. The attendant assured me my luggage also made it, but she “lied”. In any case got to Guatemala City on time, albeit without my luggage. Nick picked me up to take me back to Antiqua where he was staying. It was dark by then and my first few minutes in the car were a little nerve-racking, with the engine noise, the pollution and the traffic. However, I soon adjusted. Antigua is a really pleasant city situated in a valley, with cobble stone streets. Really only saw a small portion of it this time—Julie and I were there in 1976 or so. Next morning we took off to the airport to pick up the luggage at the airport and headed for the border and El Salvador with me behind the wheel. It brought back old memories since I owned a 56 VW that I drove to LA (from Ann Arbor Michigan) and to Fort Lauderdale when I was in college. The car looks like a piece of junk, but is really great, at least so far. Will post some pictures on the next blog

Antigua was the capital of Guatemala and one of the oldest cities in Central America. In 1773, a massive earthquake hit the city and ruined most of the buildings and churches. This resulted in the capital being moved to Guatemala City. The damage can still be seen today and in my pictures. It is a very beautiful city with Spanish layout. The roads are cobblestone and walking and driving are quite a challenge. It was just fun walking the streets and seeing more well healed people walking next to European backpackers. The place was teeming with nice courtyard restaurants and small souvenir stores. Given the climate, flowering plants were everywhere. One of the nights was a festival and the streets we lined with vendors and Hoards of families enjoying the festivities. The other night was calm and hardly any people out on the street. The two contrasts were nice. I made a day trip through the highlands to chicastrnango, which is a famous and largest market in Central America. It was a swarm of locals and tourist. After several hours, I retreated to a quiet restaurant. On my he way back, google maps decided that I needed to take the shatter “dirt mountain” road. Let’s just say that it was purely for locals and everyone was shocked to see this crazy gringo sharing their roads. Everyone gives a thumbs up to the car and are constantly taking pictures. The last full day, I was to meet Rick at airport in Guatemala. To be assured that I would meet him in time, I left early and went to the historical center of Guatemala City. It was disappointing at best, as there are hardly any interesting building or quaint areas. I spent most of the time watch the kids chase the pigeons and listing to Pink Floyd. Rick arrived on time, but without his luggage. So, we had the go back the next day on our way out of town to retrieve it on a flight from Miami I was most happy to see Rick again and have been chewing his ear for the past day. He will either go deaf or toss me off of a mountain at some point. It is just fabulous to have someone to talk to that understands and speaks English. All and all, Guatemala is a very beautiful country. The people are friendly and really make an effort to communicate. I am just going out of my way to talk to everyone and it is paying off with hand shakes, photos, and a lot of fist

Oaxaca is pronounced wah-HAH-ka to just get that out in the open and upfront.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its’ indigenous populations, rich traditions, and pre-Colombian ruins that makes it one of the most unique places in the Americas.  So that is what the books say, and, I will stand by that assessment.  On the surface, the old colonial buildings that lined the streets were just simple and rather plain.  They were not ornate or overwhelming with detailed work.  They were painted different colors; so, you knew where one building started and another ended.   Thick stone walls with heavy plaster made up the facade of most of the buildings outside of the ornate churches and government buildings, which seemed to dominate their homely neighbors. To look down the street, it just seemed like a normal town in Mexico, albeit, a little cleaner.  There were several different squares with the obvious church anchoring the one side and open markets nearby. There was a hustle in the air, but it was relaxed.  It all seemed normal until i walked though a (any) archway of one of these “plain buildings”.  Any archway would open into a courtyard with fountains, opened and closed ceilings, hand painted walls, and gardens.  Each doorway became another world within itself and the noises of the world disappeared.  Thus, it is the “hidden” city that holds the uniqueness that make it one the greatest gems of the world.  This is one very special city and I explored as much as I could.  Wandering was the order of the day, which was easy due to the grid pattern.  The city was teeming with art galleries on the scale of Santa Fe.  This is where most of the great artist of Mexico show off their skills and visions.  This is where I struck gold and (probably) spent way too much money.  I am sure MFL will be happy with our new collection(s).  Anyhow, the restaurants were plentiful and all very creative.  The downside of not speaking Spanish is less communication regarding menus.  I was lost and just ordered by price!  I figured it must be better, if it cost more(?).  I was right most of the time and did not have a bad meal.   What I want to convey about this city is the people.  Since I started this trip, I have noticed the people were getting more friendly the further south I went.  Well, this is where they all live!  The people are so friendly and love to talk about the city with much pride.  They are really happy to live there and be a part of atmosphere.  It is this common sense of pride that makes the city special for people that visit here.  I just felt safe, welcome, and a part of it all.   I have been a lot of places in the world, but feel like this is truly one special place.  It is not apparent unless you scratch the surface but it is worth the effort.  I give this a thumbs up for Tina and Geeta to visit, but I will still place it on the same pedestal with San Miguel de Allende.  All and all, Oaxaca was part of this trip that I will always remember.  I now start a two day drive to Guatemala and have no idea what to expect.  I just expect to have more memories.  I pick Rick Staelin up early next week and cannot wait to have a conversation in English.

Got up early for the drive to Puebla.  It was mostly boring highways, as I went around Mexico City.  The roads are noticeable better the closer I get to the big city and devoid of holes that swallow your car.   I pulled into Puebla after fighting the traffic around two major cities.  I have to be honest, I really hit a wall today.  Traveling is such a passion for me but two weeks straight caught up with me.  I just wanted to be alone, relax, and wish I was home again. I know about this stage in a trip.  You just have to power through and ride out the rough times.  To offset these strong feelings, I started walking around the beautiful city square about 4-blocks away.  I spied a total tourist restaurant and, being one myself, I sat down to be ripped off.  Contrary to initial thoughts, I had one of the best Mexican meals, so far.  I snapped a few photos, which does not do this city justice and then went back to the hotel to withdrawal from the world.
> After a good night rest, I set out for Oaxaca.  I have been longing to see the town for many years, as it is a world heritage city.  The drive out of Puebla was marred with bumper-to-bumper traffic.  I was beginning to feel down again when the traffic cleared and I started climbing back into the mountains.  I just kept going up, up, and up in the mountains.  The beast was straining, but I was instantly rewarded with some of the most beautiful scenery that I have ever seen.  The road hugged the edge of the mountains and there was always a valley on one side to gaze at.   The cactus were growing very thickly up and down the hills  like a forest.   I have never seen so many cactus on one area.  I suspect that AZ use to look similar when the West was being settled. I stopped several times to take photos, but was unable to catch the effect.  So, after awhile, I just stopped taking pictures and took in the beauty.  Aside from occasionally running into slow moving tractor trailers, I could just go at my own pace.  It was one of the best drives of my life and started getting back into the trip and thinking about my next stop in Oaxaca.

After rising early in Guadalajara, I headed out for another driving adventure to two towns, which have been on my bucket list for years.  Both are 15th century mining towns that are locked high in the mountains, with substantial areas that are pedestrian only.  Guanajuato is on the top of a mountain with a confusing array of  “other” towns up-and-down the surrounding hills.  To make matters worse, this particular mountain has a series of hand carved tunnels to drive though.  I tried to take a picture while driving, but failed miserably.  After coming out of the tunnels, I just parked the first place I could and hailed a taxi to finish the journey.  This was my smartest move of the day.  To call this town a maze would not be doing it justice.  I am sure I missed most of it during my 2-hour stop. The streets all surround the cathedral with small green areas here-and-there.  Turn down one road and you pop out wherever, after it has curved several times and I was disoriented.  It is a very beautiful town, as the pictures shows, but I needed to get to my crown jewel, San Miguel de Allende.

SM Allende was about 60-miles further into the mountains.  It is hands down one of the most beautiful places I have ever been in my life.  I stayed in a hotel overlooking the main square with cathedral right out my window.   Magical does not even begin to describe this UNESCO World Hertitage site.  I could have snapped a photo at every turn and never have captured its allure.  There was a wedding going on and the street were filled with mariachi bands, giant brides and grooms, and kids playing with long ballots that they would bounce off of the ground.  I spent 2-days walking the streets and going into countless art galleries, high end restaurants, and appealing courtyards.   I really felt like nothing had changed here for hundreds of years.  Some would call this a tourist place, but in the end, it is because it has so much to offer and see.   Why wouldn’t it be tourist.  I did see a fair number of tourist, but it was offset by a large number of locals flexing their buying power with a higher standard of living.

The drive from Mazatlán to Guadalajara took me from sea level to the mile high city.  Initially, I rode the coast past endless farms with fields of everything imaginable.  People were selling onions, oranges, and other vegetables along side the roadside stands.  I drove past beautiful rows of green crops up against the backdrop of steep mountains.  I would eventually have to cross these steep peaks.  The highway rose sharply and became very curvy.  I had to use all of my skills to push “the beast” into beast mode in order clear the summits.  It was a difficult drive in a car barely capable of doing 65mph on a flat road.  Needless to say, I was very happy to roll into the valley, as I immediately started seeing the fields of blue agave, which are used to make tequila.  Everything is tequila in this part of Mexico and it is a large source of revenue.  Guadalajara is not overly pretty on the surface, as it is just a very large city attempting to become modern; however, it has a great pulse.  The old historical center was my target with its maze of churches, colonial buildings, and people selling every imaginable trinket.  This seems to be where young and old come to enjoy seeing and being seen.  Starbucks next to buildings several 100’s years old.  I saw many interesting people and decided to actually ask them if I could take their picture.  I had never done this before but found it rewarding.  It made me put down fear of approaching strangers and provided me some human interaction.  I posted the pictures on Facebook.  This city is moving from the past to the future as Mexico comes out of its 3rd world status.   The older generation were still wearing the traditional plain clothing and woven hats, while the younger kids had the plugs in their ears and wore the latest trendy styles.  I met a guy, who told me about this artist colony outside of town.   I ordered a Uber and was on my way with one of the angriest and most aggressive drivers I have ever met.  In the end, I allowed him to drop me off at the wrong place just to get out of car.  I walked the final 1.5KM relieved to be alive.  The town of Tlaquepaque is a picturesque town built around a small church and plaza.  There is a 4-5 block pedestrian walk lined with all sorts of galleries.  Anyone who really knows me, they understand that this is my element and where I feel most comfortable.  In-and-out of art galleries looking at every human expression imaginable is where I find my inner piece

Got up before the sun and set out to take photos of the hotel and small town of El Fuerte.  Again, it was an easy walk but not short on beauty.  The church is always the center of town with adjacent plaza for people to gather.   The colorful houses dotted all the small alleyways.  I spent about an hour wandering around before heading out.  The drive took me from the semi-arid mountains to the lush fields full of every crop imaginable.  I always like the rural areas because they are a hub of activity and purpose.  They are the forgotten that feed the masses in the cities.  The true backbone of any country.   The drive took most of the day as I creeped closer to Mazatlán.  I had these visions of a tropical, beachside town where Capt Stuben, Goffer, and Julie were cruising the streets and soaking up the romance.  That was shattered, as I arrived.  It was a no charismatic  town, but rather dusty and lacking character or identity.  It seems like a forgotten town of a bygone era.   I sucked it up and went looking for the charm.  Believe me, it is not easily found.  The main square seems to be the hub of activities with a few beach areas playing second fiddle.  I suspect that the high end beach resort area, outside of town, is as plastic as a Barbie doll and just as shallow.  I sent most of my time doing an arts walk.  The creativity was lacking, but a few galleries had potential.  In the end, I did find what I was looking for at a sidewalk café.  Just observing people interact and going about daily life, you realize that they all want to live in peace.  They want to do the little things that make them human.  Whether it is buying a balloon for the kid or stopping to listen to a street performer or just walking hand in hand.  It sounds corny, but I observed people just wanting a better life filled with love, joy, and contentment.  In this regard, I found more humans in this town than any large city, where everyone needs and wants more.  The simple things are sometimes overlooked.  It is just being with the ones you love and being happy for what you have at that moment.  I saw this in the smiles on their faces and smiles on their faces.   some jobs missing in America were still thriving here with the guy on the bike peddling flat breads or the shoe shiner or the street sweepers.  Everyone seems to look for that little niche in life to exist.  We seem to have forgotten this in America, as we are seldom satisfied.  Tomorrow is a mountain adventure to Guadalajara.

After waking up in a very old colonial building that was converted to a hotel, I was ready train ride to the copper canyon.  I have always liked riding the rails because you see sights that you would not ordinarily have the opportunity.  Further, you have the free attention to soak them in and experience the beautiful natural surroundings.  The added option of meeting interesting people and trading travel stories is a real bonus.    For this ride, the terrain was a lot like southern Arizona with the mid-sized mountains and low growth vegetation.  Very rocky but not overly imposing.  The vistas never really opened, as the route was within a narrow river valley.  About halfway through, I was chatting with one of the cabin stewards and he offered to let me ride up front.  When I say, upfront, I mean outside on the very front of the train.  I could not resist and took him up on the (200 peso) offer.  It was an intense experience feeling this massive engine pushing upward into the mountains.  I was actually left alone with the open corners on both sides.  Interestingly, I never saw the steward again.  It was a bucket list ticked off…not that I ever thought about being stuck on the front of a moving train with a cliff to one side.  Anyhow, after 5-hours we arrive at the hotel, which was literally built on the rim of the canyon.  I have to say the view was beyond breathtaking.  I just stared for the first hour and kept going out on the balcony to make sure it was not a picture painted on the wall.  My Neighbours, Donna and Dewayne, who were every bit of mid-eighties introduced themselves over the stunning landscape. Donna informed me that this trip was a bucket list for her and, I think, she will not tick off that many more in her life.  I set my alarm and got up before sunrise to watch the show.  Sure enough, Donna was already on her balcony.   We talked a little about how beautiful it was with the sun rising over the canyon.  I could see a tear in her eye as she watched and snapped picture after picture.  For a brief moment, I forgot about the whole event and just thought how happy I was for Donna to have this experience which  she had dreamed about for years.  Then,  I immediately thought, where the hell is Dewayne?  Why is he not up sharing this? Pretty sure the experience was lessened by the likes of me!  Around the hotel, I seemed to be a bit of a novelty, as I was 20+ years younger than everyone else at the hotel.  I guess they thought I was their kid or something(?).  One guy, a dairy farmer from Canada named Forrest, kept seeking me out to talk.  He was a great guy, but we had the same conversation each and every time like we never talked before.   The canyon is interesting, in that, it is inhabited by a small community of indigenous natives.  I suspect they have been there for hundreds of years.  Just living a simple life of migrating out of the canyon in the spring for the crops and back down in winter for warmth.  Everyone seemed amazed by this and how hard life must be.  I suppose, if you do not know anything else, it is actually easy.  It is harder through our eyes and western comforts.   I had to admire the people and wonder how we have lost sight of these simple times.  Then I promptly put in my headphones to hear the Chainsmokers.  No ready to live that simply, quite yet.  The canyon is very impressive, but less so when compared to our gem back home.  However, I found it more manageable to view and experience.  We did the rim tour and really got to see a large portion of one of the three main canyons.  The train ride back was delayed; so, I spent time in the lobby talking to people from many different countries,  As  usual, I found the Americans to be the most annoying of the lot.  Anyhow, the ride back was pleasant and we arrived late evening.  The next day I walked around taking photos before heading to Mazatlán.